Tuesday, April 26, 2011

One month til Jacob comes! (Author's note: this post has nothing to do with Jacob's coming)

Happy Easter! It may be a few days post-peeps-overload for you, but Easter here’s a 4 day holiday: Good Friday, Holy Saturday, Easter Sunday, Easter Monday. That’s a lot of mass. For most… For me, it meant a lot of yoga and The West Wing. Where was I in 1999 and why wasn’t I watching The West Wing? That show is fantastic. Yet the fact that there are 7 seasons could seriously impede my work, heck, bring it to a screeching halt; but I’m in luck (I disagree with you, Renee, this is bad luck!): I only have the first season on my computer. The West Wing’s off the air, I acquiesce, but is 30 Rock? It shouldn’t be. Tina Fey’s comedic genius mixed with perverse and often inappropriate bits that would never make the cut of a West Wing taping, make that show perfect for a rainy, or frustrating day. Can you see I’ve spent my time wisely as of late?

In my defense, I’ve been on holiday for the past week. School term ended last Thursday. No more students (I miss them)! No more books (There never were any)! No more teachers’ dirty looks (I ruffle a few feathers)! But really, it’s been nothing but final exams, staff meetings and report card filling since my birthday (take note: April 14. I’ll be 25 next year, that’s HUGE, people). So I’ve passed my second birthday in Uganda. This one, though, has the last beat. I spent my 23rd in bed during training, nursing an unfortunate bout of giardia. I spent the 24th eating cake surrounded my lions. You might think that that kind of thing’s made only for a Malcolm in the Middle episode (F I need to update my pop culture references), but it can and did indeed happen. Here’s the long and short of it: Hayley bakes me a delicious chocolate cake, from which I really only got a small nosh because tradition has it here that the celebratee has to serve the celebrators before his or herself. Hayley has an office staff of around 15. I noted, to my dismay, that on any normal day there are about 6 loitering around. I can only conclude that the cake memorandum had leaked. So during my 5 minutes ever employed in servitude, Brian and his girlfriend Kristen showed up. (Get this story: Brian came to Uganda w/ me a year ago as a PC volunteer. The SAME DAY, his long-term girlfriend Kristen left for PC in Paraguay. Her visiting the past few weeks was the first they’ve seen of each other in over a year. A-frickin-dorable). They were meeting up with Benjamin, Hayley’s coworker and Queen Elizabeth National Park safari game guide. Now, I had finished my work there, and when the two of them offered up a free tag-along position on safari, how could I not jump into the car at the opportunity?! And luckily I did, fore it resulted in the coolest lion experience I can imagine. I don’t think Benjamin was supposed to go off the path like that…

It would logically follow that if two birthday have passed with me straddling the Equator, than two Easter’s have also elapsed. Not true! Easters are screwy. But yeah, two actually have, ha. This one was a little strange. It was the first “big” holiday I spent alone in the village. Obviously I wasn’t alone. I spent 3 hours in a church service to which we preemptively brought our own chairs. That should tell you a little about how overcrowded it was. (Ugandans are also opportunistic Christians!) Strange though: the 3 hours swam by pleasantly because my favorite little sister, Somaya, filled my lap… and also my heart…? Gross, I hate kids and I hate sentimentality. But it had to be confessed. I can’t get enough of my extended family here, even though Easter met me with a profound longing for the Vuillaume family traditions. Or maybe I just wanted my hidden chocolate eggs and quarters. 24-year-olds are still entitled to Easter baskets!

Easter ended in a homemade, hearty meal prepared lovingly with my family, which included everyone’s favorites (and ALL of mine: cabbage, millet bread and groundnut sauce). Much like everyone’s at home Stateside, I’m sure. And I actually have been doing some work. But more on that later; the project’s not finished and I’m hitting the road, than the air, than the sea in South Africa for a few days. How better to celebrate our official 1-year-as-volunteer mark, than to… well I actually don’t know what we’re going to do in South Africa, but we’ll sure as hell figure it out as we go! Nelson Mandela, the Zulu and braiis: let us in! (Us being myself, John and Joe; should be an interesting trio) Catch ya when I get back, please don’t anticipate Egypt-like accounts. Better yet, please pray that I DON’T return with Egypt-like accounts. Happy Easter and Happy Spring, kids!

Tuesday, March 15, 2011

Happy, Shift, F7: content, contented, pleased, glad...

How did this happen? How is the slowest year of my life actually over? And how is God’s name is this year going so fast?! Maybe it’s because I make vegetable curry every night for dinner such that the days have blurred together (seriously, I’m eating vegetable curry right now). Nah, try again. I haven’t blacked out in a malarial state of semi-being. Therefore, that has to mean that I’m actually happy; I’m enjoying this year! Holy balls. Who gave me permission to do that? Blame it on my students: they’re audacious little bastards. And Jacob: he’s an audacious bastard. And myself: I’m just audacious.

Truly, though, I welcome Mid-March (Mid-April, Mid-May, Mid-June…) with my solitary favorite phrase in vernacular: kulikyo, welcome back! These months are greeted with smiles (hi Smiles, thanks for reading) partially because I’ve nestled into a groove and partially because I’m legit keyed-up about the future. I’m hating teaching computers, and admit to that fact unabashedly to everyone within earshot at least once a week, but I’m loving my students. And the perpetuity of high school is unavoidable: I’m a Junior Peace Corps Volunteer thanks to the February group of Freshman, teaching for a Sophmore year in a school with new Freshmen at whom I catch even myself treating as the noobs right along with all of the older St. Thomas Students. Send me pennies, I have no reservations about throwing them. Just kidding… I’m their teacher… Yeah… Sigh… But I think I’ve come to fill the role of older friend/advisor to many of these kids, and I’m more than okay with that. I’d much rather encourage them to forego studying to instead play volleyball, netball, football or just shoot the shit. I spend too many 5:00ams a week threatening to beat boys and girls alike in sprinting, plank and push-up competitions (I’ve got the planks and push-ups but I’m better off feigning my starts when it comes to sprinting with the boys: they don’t fear the beach ball-size divots and cow patties [ugh, beach balls as well] on our ‘track’). I get to talk to whomever asks about good study habits (I still wish I could turn it into a career…) and when I planned an International Women’s Day program, be damn sure that it included games that involve as many people as possible getting drenched by as much water as possible and a girl’s football match, as well as lessons on puberty, menstruation, sex, HIV/AIDS and pregnancy. For the boys as well. Although maybe I should rethink my strategy; I did get a chunk of my arm gouged out by an over-zealous Drip, Drip, Drop contestant… I’m lying, it didn’t even bleed.

So when I say that I’m content, I’m being honest. Despite the fact that two of my good friends are moving away: Kakulu and Deacon Dez. Dez is becoming a full-blown priest (trust me, there are half-blown priests) this weekend. His ordination celebration should be hilarious, judging by the inside joke we share naming nothing less than a cold Guinness as “His Life.” But he’ll be heading his own parish soon, and so, alas, I lose my best guy friend. So drink a Guinness for him on St. Patty’s Day, and wish him the luck of the Irish in becoming as much of a Fr. Gavin as a non-Fr. Gavin can become. Then there’s Kakulu, damn him! This morning, after his ritualistic morning teasing, this time inviting me to tea in his house which is presently a pile of bricks, he squeezes me into a big hug and says, “when you’re in Kampala, call me.” What?! I look left: there’s a rolled-up mattress at his feet and a suitcase the appropriate size for an American’s weekend getaway. “I probably won’t be back these ends for a year.” Shit. “Couldn’t you have told me BEFORE the day you were leaving??” Nah, that’s so not Africa.

But it’s all good, I’m happy, right (have you caught the theme yet)? Yep, despite needing to recharge with the next-best comfort food after cereal, a peanut butter and honey sandwich, following most typing lessons with the “freshman”, all gauges still read “Renee’s happy!”. I’ve reached the point in my service in which I’ve come to the realization that Give! Give! Give! is just as appreciated by the community as Give Sometimes and Do What You Want the Rest of the Time! So I read a lot. I’ve become addicted to moon salutations and headstands. I ran out of new sudokus, thus I pen my own. I decided to learn how to play chess, thinking I could one-up Jacob in something (no such luck, he knows… but thankfully my determination to beat people at things can’t be deterred by minor setbacks like the fact that he knows how to play and I don’t); good game, reminds me of Carl. I brainstorm hairstyles for the impending hair-growth. I think about travelling quite regularly: off to South Africa and Rwanda with friends before the end of May. I think about life post-PC. Call the press: I’ve decided firmly how I’m going to spend my readjustment allowance (read: pittance) of like $6,000! A good road bike for the streets of Chicago, GRE and grad school apps, and flying lessons in San Diego via the airport near Elizabeth’s home where I’ll spend a lolling few months. And what of the time (may it come idly swiftly) when the school year has ended, I’ve packed a lone pack (not much should return to America after a sojourn in Africa. Plus Winnie’s already laid dibs on my mattress), and saluted the great continent? Well, I think an Ashram in India will welcome me with open arms and a chorus of “oms” for a few weeks. But I’ll be damned if I’m not home before my 25th year comes calling. April 14, 2012, people, see you then.

Thursday, February 10, 2011

Sure, why not?

Of course I haven't looked into the legitimacy of my blog-mates from around the globe, but...

"We recently compiled a list of the Top 50 Volunteer/Activism Blogs, and
wanted to let you know that you made the list! The list promotes
blogs that focus on volunteer opportunities or work at the policy
level for college students interested in learning more."

http://www.onlinedegrees.org/top-50-volunteeractivism-blogs/

Tuesday, February 8, 2011

One of the coolest things I’ve done in country.

My alarm was set for 5am this morning, but I was already awake. Eager. But as I listened to the sound of the wind whistling through the banana plantations, which can only signify one thing: rain, and poked my head out my door for the briefest of seconds, enough to see the stars and moon still in full splendor, I reversed back inside. Less than a minute later, I hear a gingerly tap on my door, followed by one of my favorite laughs. “Okay, I’m coming, give me a second…” Sigh. Within the time it takes to boil a pot of coffee, Ronald, Dononzio and I were trotting along the main road, in a state of utter darkness through which you could hardly see three feet in front of your toes. But with only the light of the Southern Hemisphere’s constellations to guide us, and not a soul in sight, it was the most primordial I had ever felt. Now this was running!

Eventually, we were met along the way by the rising sun over the hills (that still confound me to this day), because what I assumed would be a 15-, 20-minute run, tops, charged on at a sprint for 7, 8 miles. With Ronald, at one point, boasting: “we can go on like this all the way to Kasese!”. Kasese being a large town about 50km away, on the opposite side of Queen Elizabeth National Park. And you know what? I swear, I think they could have. Guess I should have taken more than a swig from my water bottle before we set out. ..

So as I sit here, freshly showered (I always enjoy when my icy shower actually feels nice), breakfasting on oatmeal, my boys are already sitting in their first lecture of a 9-hour school day. And Ronald ran in dress shoes and dress pants; Dononzio in a, much more acceptable, pair of swim trunks. Damn Africans.

Thursday, February 3, 2011

By the Numbers

A more thought-out synopsis to come, but my reasoning for this schizophrenic, chronologically-reversed format becomes apparent... right... now...

4 - the number of hours I slept last night.
3:30 am - the time myself, Charlene, Arwen, Elizabeth and Ashley got into Uganda on a flight from Istanbul, Turkey today Feb 3rd.
5 - the number of planes I've been on in the past 10 days.
5 - the number of currencies I've used in the past 10 days (Turkish Lira, Euros, Dollars, Egyptian Pounds and Ugandan Shillings).
4 - the number of Visas I've used in the past 4 days (Uganda, Turkey, Greece, Egypt).
1609 - the year construction began on the Sultanahmet Mosque in Istanbul. Friggin beautiful.
1000 - the number of shops selling Turkish Delight at the Grand Bazaar; or so it seemed.
178 euros - the amount it cost me to book a last minute ticket from Athens to Istanbul because Peace Corps glitched and forgot to book it for me.
2 - the nights spent at the stupendous Sofitel hotel in Athens, after getting randomly evacuated there by the U.S. Embassy in Cairo.
10 - the pounds of food we must have eaten at the free breakfast each morning. Think Greek yogurt, lychees (finally Jacob), strawberries, pears, figs, dates, plums, granola, lox, pastries, rice pudding, mimosas, fresh bread, hazelnut and carob honey, smoothies, scrambled eggs, sauteed vegetables, and green tea.
40 - degrees it must have been in Athens as we wandered around the Temple of Zeus, the Acropolis, the Ampitheatre, and the baclava shops (equally as important, obviously) all in Saharan Desert-weather clothing.
3 - the bottles of Greek wine we drank while lying by the rooftop pool that night in Athens.
1,800 - the cost of our hotel rooms, in dollars, for 2 nights, totally covered by the U.S. government. Thanks tax payers!
11:00 pm - the time on Tuesday 02/01 that we finally arrived in Greece from Egypt, to be greeted with open arms by the U.S. Embassy in Greece (as opposed to the non-present U.S. Embassy in Egypt), with fresh sandwiches, water, shampoo, toothpaste and free phone calls.
9 – the hours we spent waiting with 5,000 other Americans to get out of Cairo, as per the U.S. Embassy’s evacuation procedure and exempting the 10s of 1000s of other world citizens awaiting similar bout of luck.
3rd – the flight we got out on, thanks to being considered a diplomat because of our Peace Corps status. Innumerable flights after that, I can imagine…
3 – the number of places the U.S. was evacuating to: Athens, Cyprus and Istanbul. Not too shabby.
10 – British Embassy workers we saw pre-Tuesday, helping Brits evacuate.
0 – U.S. Embassy workers we saw pre-Tuesday, helping Americans evacuate.
50 – the communication attempts, I’d say, with families, Peace Corps Uganda, Peace Corps Washington, the U.S. Embassy, the State Department, Ethiopian Air, Egypt Air, Kenya Air, whoever, that failed during those 3 days. Maybe 5 went through.
45 - the hours we spent stuck at the Cairo airport, hoping desperately for an escape.
517 – pages I read during those hours, when all else there was to do was sleep on the cold floor or avoid random anxious outbursts from 5,000 other stranded travelers.
15 – the number of M & Ms I ate for dinner Monday night, after the airport ran out of all things edible and drinkable. We hope the tap water was safe, it did smell faintly of chlorine…
12:00 am – the time Sunday night (okay Monday morning) we first realized our original flight out of Cairo was cancelled. It was a 2:35 am flight to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia.
5/14 - the number of Peace Corps Volunteers remaining in Egypt after Sunday, Jan 31st (That would be the 5 of us from Uganda, or as we’ve been dubbed by PCVs in Uganda: The Egyptian Liberation Front’s Fab Five).
9 – the number of hours we spent on a bus from Dahab on the Sinai Peninsula to Cairo on Sunday, still hoping to make our flight.
2 – the number of hours we spend driving around the roadblocks (read: vigilante groups of Egyptian boys and men protecting their neighborhoods from looters and thugs by any means possible; read: whips, chains, 2x4s, bats, torches, meat cleavers, guns, molitov cocktails, bricks, knives, sabers, blow torches, seriously we saw it all) looking for a safe place to dock the bus.
30 – the number of said roadblocks we must have passed through during the attempt, and on the way to the airport, with bated breathe and jagged heartbeats at each.
7 – the number of Egyptians who took it upon themselves to ensure our safe passage to the airport, despite the personal risk involved (note: this riot was in no way about foreigners).
6 –days of true vacation we actually managed to get in. Amazing. More to come on the wonders of Egypt later.
6 – and finally, days over my scheduled vacation that I was away from Uganda.

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

Happy New Year?

I trust you’re all as resolution-free as me. Since my 2010 paraded me around with a dogged resolve that more than compensates for two years, I think I’m square in 2011. And to justify, allow me to recapitulate: I packed up and moved to Uganda with two bags of shit and an idealistic determination; spent two months becoming intimately aware of all of my bodily functions during training; packed up and moved for a second time to a NGO in the central, Buganda, region to work with dairy farmers; hit a number of snafus that prompted me to pack up and hit the open road within two weeks, branding me a vagabond for three months, after which I moved for a third time, with no less than a sense of urgent desperation, to my second site to teach computers in St. Thomas Vocational Secondary School; lived, actually lived, happy-as-a-clam, for a handful of months before being stabbed with a few more gut-punches that effectively nullified my contentment and necessitated a relocation; packed up for a fourth (fifth? I’ve lost count…) time before taking off for a little TLC in A Nice Place to Live (that would be Darien, IL, for all of those unfamiliar with its exceptional mantra), with the knowledge that I would be calling a new place home upon my return to Uganda. And that is where I sit presently: in my small, two-room crackerjack box with shoddy wall circuits, outdoor kitchen, take-your-breath-away-cold shower, pit latrine john, and bedbugs. But I love it! The privacy, sense of ownership, independence, solitude, quietude, or whatever else you want to call it, placates my single most important ability: I can eat whatever the F I want. But allow me to fill you in on a few events that have brought me to noshing on a carrot with peanut butter for lunch and cauliflower coconut curry on brown rice for dinner on my floor with Arwen.

Beginning of December. The school year ends and I head to Kampala with Sanyu (yes, still my absolute best friend in the village) as co-counselors for 150 Ugandan girls aged 12-16 during a week of empowerment, knowledge, and fun befitting your stereotypical American summer camp. Peace Corps has called it Camp GLOW: Girls Leading Our World. The girls, the majority of whom had never set foot outside of their villages, had a ball. They learned the ways of the capital and made friends from different tribes all over the country. They listened to female guest speakers who have “made it” and planned for their own future. They danced and played sports; learned about health and HIV/AIDS. I got the flu.

Three hours before my flight home. I was still on a bus coming from Mbale, a city 5 hours East of Kampala. I’d been in Uganda too long; my priorities and time-sensitivity were all out of whack. I opted to head East with one day remaining in the countdown, to keep myself from toe-tapping anxiousness and to catch the bi-annual male circumcision ceremonies (aged-16, no anesthesia, dull blade, drums, booze and costumes). I opted to wait it out when the ceremonies began at noon instead of 10am. And I opted to wait for the Elgon Flyer bus I had already bought a ticket for when it got a flat tire minutes before departure, pushing that back from 2pm to 4pm. I did not opt to sit in traffic heading into Kampala. I did not opt to sit in traffic on my way from the hotel (and a face-scratchingly panicked shower) to the airport. I did not opt to leave half of my Christmas presents at a volunteer’s site en route to the airport, poorly assuming that I’d have time to snag them on the way. I did not opt to drop my money belt with passport, credit card and cash in the airport waiting room, as I, blissfully-unaware, fiddled with the gadgetry of an international flight jumbo jet. But thanks St. Christopher medallion at the bottom of my purse: my idiocy was overlooked, my life (seriously I would have been identity-less in Istanbul without that crap) was relocated and my flight only left an hour late. Dear Mom tracking it online at home: that was because of your daughter.

Beginning of January. Home’d been great. A vacation. Eden. Idyllic. But you all know that, you live in The States, dammit. So why was I leaving? Family, friends, a pretty rad boyfriend, soy milk, yogurt and salmon, a hot shower, potable tap water, daily runs, McDonald’s hot fudge sundaes, yoga classes, you get the gist. What was making me go back to a place with daily struggles, twelve-hour bus rides without a bathroom stop, and cockroaches? And then I got off the plane at 2:30am, sans hotel room booking and thus the prospect of sleeping on an airport bench until dawn, only to find Arwen and Elizabeth jumping up and down, waving frantically at me through some glass doors. That’s why I came back to Uganda. And after an enjoyable yet sleepless and abbreviated stay with the girls, I was back on the bus to Bururuma, contemplating my judgment in returning to the place I’d struggled in for the past 2 months, only to find a village that came out in swarms to welcome me back and an extended family (that would be Sanyu, Brenda, Kakulu Mukulu, Fred, Muhumuza, Robert, Ronald, Devis, Kakulu Muto, Somiya, and Renette; seriously, there are a lot of them) who tried every day to call my U.S. phone number without success because they missed me. They’re why I came back to Bururuma.

Today. I’m comfortably settled in a new house. I get my fill of the village life as I wile away the time at no more than a saunter, waiting until next week when I play the tourist in Egypt before returning to the beginning of a new school year and the prospect of 150 of my favorite students back on campus! Peace Corps 2011, you are most welcome!

Saturday, October 9, 2010

For Jacob, Wherever I May Find Him

Exactly as the title indicates (and as Simon and Garfunkel penned): Jacob Babu, thank you for being ever there when I need you.